There was a huge rainstorm last night. All gone this morning. We hurtle down to Isola before having a coffee and starting the Lombarda pass … except I see a sign to Nice and suggest we carry on down the valley to Nice, turn left and follow the Riviera to Tuscany. A great idea which we agree to. The road down the Tinee and then the Var valley is amazing, a real Alpine massive trough for miles and miles. Nice is hot and busy until we come to the Promenade des Anglais [memories of walking down here at the end of The Walk in 1984] and follow a bike track right along the front. I like it. Then the road climbs and twists through posh Riviera places [nice limonade at Cap Ferrat with Italian waiter “Wiggins!”] until at Monaco it gets weird with tunnels, underground rondpoints, all too much. Menton is a welcome downbeat surprise and over the border Ventimillga is a delight. Find a good hotel, have a really great meal for $50 and enjoy the place.
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