Monday, July 21, 2014

Day 8

French breakfast would typically be plain croissant, bread, natural yogurt, coffee etc. In Italy that is replaced by filled and dusted croissants [yuk], flavoured yogurt [ditto] bread in little plastic bags [not good]. Still ok though!
Cycle round to Portofino to check it out - obviously provided some of the inspiration for Portmeirion, very pretty but the police checkpoint at the entrance to the harbour to keep out ne'er do wells, and limit cyclists to one hour visits, leaves a sour taste.
We cycle on to Sestri where a street market is in full swing and which we have to negotiate on foot. Then there starts a great climb up to Col de Brasco. This is the old main road [before the Autostrada was built] but is now nearly deserted. Just a few cyclists [sweating in the 36 degree heat] groups of motorcyclists, the odd Dutch tourist. It is a great road too, twisting high high above the Cinque Terre below [which is where late friend Achille’s family had their summer home], high above everything. The descent is good too, I see Ibis in the river valley, but at Aulla our luck runs out and we can find no hotel. So we ride 22k into La Spezia where we are told repeatedly that the city has no hotel rooms free. We try one on spec and we get a room! Then another great room. A very hot day but enjoyable too, and we hit Tuscany for the first time [at Aulla].
This cycle sculpture was an unlikely siting in a dusty village on the road.

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